Kudos to the team of Grant Achatz, Dave Beran and Nick Kokonas for coming up with one of the most enjoyable concepts in the world of dining—a restaurant that puts the theme of the evening on equal footing with the food. Paris 1906, Thai, Childhood and El Bulli were the first four themes they have executed. But despite the constantly changing cuisine, the kitchen still manages to “knock some dishes out of the park” like Pad Thai prepared in the style of Michel Bras’ gargouillou, a minimalist version of Escoffier’s Supreme de Poussin, or a deconstructed hamburger with cornichon chips, gelled mayonnaise and sesame bun paste whch one reviewer described as “having all of the flavors you can find at White Castle and McDonald’s.”