A North Carolina native, Cindy Wolf decided to set up shop in Baltimore, where she practices a style of cooking that one reviewer described as “haute Low Country." The Southern influence is especially visible in starters like cornmeal-fried oysters with lemon Cayenne mayonnaise and Upland cress, head-on shrimp and grits topped with an andouille, tasso and butter sauce and what passes for a Southern Caprese Salad: Buffalo mozzarella with fried green tomatoes. Mains have a stronger slant towards New American theme and feature dishes like pan-roasted turbot with carrot purée, seared foie gras and lemon beurre blanc. Wolf's husband Tony Foreman, lords over a 600-bottle wine list, which includes a superb selection of Burgundies. A "stylish and elegant" dining room offers a "lovely view overlooking the harbor.”