Though it bears his name, Jean-Marie Lacroix no longer runs this kitchen. Problem is, neither do the host of chefs who followed him. Jon Cichon is the latest to try to stabilize things, and his unfussy New American fare includes dishes like sweetbreads with coconut and truffle or a veal chop with Belga lentils, baby carrots and pomegranate. There a "terrific wine list" with more than 500 different bottles, but the restaurant's cause isn't helped by prices called "insulting." Oenophiles prefer it on Mondays, when they can enjoy the eight-course tasting menu with a bottle from their own cellars.