Back in the 1970s, when agricultural conglomerates were forcing independent farmers out of business, Alice Waters decided to open a restaurant that only used ingredients that were raised naturally. In the process, Waters defined the contemporary American dining experience so clearly that after she retires, we propose that the restaurant be moved to the Smithsonian Museum in its entirety in order to become an exhibit that is located next to Julia Child's kitchen. The storied history is only one reason to be a Chez Panisse fan; another important reason are the pristine ingredients, which are prepared in the most loving and respectful manner. There is a nice list of small-producer wines, with an emphasis on bottles from southern France.