Every city has a number of French expat chefs who soldier on despite the declining popularity of traditional French cuisine. Roland Passot is among those who carry that torch in the Bay Area, and he keeps the local Francophile community happy with a tortellini of foie gras in a duck and oxtail consommé, a terrine made with warm pig's feet, sweetbreads and lobster, and a pancetta-wrapped venison loin served with an apple-studded potato galette. While the food is described as "rich and intense," the service occasionally comes under fire for being "fussy," "pretentious" and "overbearing," though one reviewer found the persnickety quality "perfect when you're in the mood for a classic, romantic, whimsical and delicious meal."