With the demise of L'Orangerie, finding a quality contemporary French meal in L.A. can be difficult. But reviewers say Josiah Citrin's restaurant is the best in the category, declaring, "You have to go France to experience similar culinary expertise." Chef Ken Takayama's menu is loaded with luxury ingredients, with dishes like a lobster Bolognese with cappellini, black truffles and basil; a rotisserie chicken stuffed with summer truffles and a side of potatoes Parmentier; and a potato purée atop a mixture of braised short ribs and foie gras. Comments alternate between "always tasty, with interesting menu items, good wine selection and reasonable corkage" and "Recent honors for the restaurant mean that prices have skyrocketed, but fortunately the food has stayed the same. Still delicious."