Looking for a restaurant where the chef abandons many of the comforts of the modern kitchen and likes to cook food the way it was done in the Middle Ages? Head on over to this large space on Grand Avenue in Oakland and watch Russell Moore, who spent over 20 years cooking at Chez Panisse, cook dinner in a hearth. Moore never met an heirloom ingredient he didn’t like, and on any given day his kitchen turns out dishes like half a quail with sweet onions, vinegar, currants and walnuts, grilled garlic sausage and pork loin with lentils. Savoy cabbage and Jerusalem artichokes and wood oven baked Dungeness crab and rockfish stew with wild nettles, chiles and garlic toast.