The Admiral, a cool roadhouse type of restaurant that serves a highly enjoyable farm to table cuisine, could pass for the prototype of the perfect local restaurant. There is enough going on for the food to be interesting, but the plates never get fussy enough to make you morph into serious dining mode. Elliot Moss is the chef and I understand why some people call his food “gasto-pubbish." I think that’s selling him short as his food is more ambitious than basic gastropub fare. Especially dishes like smoked tomato soup with goat cheese and Black Angus ribeye with celeriac, truffle duck egg, Brussels black pepper jus.