Although Hugh Acheson was born and raised in Canada, the menu at his restaurant reads as if he's a Georgia native son. Doubters need only taste a few of Acheson's creations, like crisp veal sweetbreads with a custard of Red Mule grits and succotash or chile dusted catfish with Red Mule grits, okra with almods, tomato chutney and lemon emulsion, and they will be convinced faster than they can say Dixie. The vast preponderance of comments were favorable: "Chef Acheson makes imaginative use of local ingredients and puts together unexpected taste combinations," "a bit of culinary heaven stuck in the middle of a small town" and "worth the drive from Atlanta - and that says something."