Locals exhibit provincial pride when it comes to the fish at Ting San's establishments, claiming the "ethereal sushi" is world-class. But out-of-towners say that while the fish is of high quality, its local provenance would relegate Oishii to second-tier status in New York and Los Angeles, where top sushi specialists import much of their fish from Japan. There is a long list of exotic rolls on offer - like the Maki Cover (spicy mayo, asparagus, cucumber and bonito flake) - that, depending on your point of view, are either "delicious" or "gimmicky." Its popularity means you will wait for a table even on weeknights.