After years of toiling in the kitchens of places like Aureole and Gramercy Tavern, Gerry Hayden and Claudia Fleming wanted to escape the rat race. They bought a run-down inn on Long Island’s North Fork, and they opened what is easily the best restaurant in a 50 mile radius. Hayden's menu features produce grown at nearby farms, and the daily catch of the local fishing fleet turns up in dishes like a crudo of Block Island fluke with foie gras and sherry vinegar or a paella of Shinnecock monkfish, shrimp and house-made chorizo. Fleming's desserts are as delightful as they were during her days at Gramercy Tavern, and partners Mike and Mary Mraz offer the type of professional service you don't usually see on Long Island’s East End.