If anyone wants to know how this place manages to maintain its high standing despite its celebrity chef owner operating more than two dozen restaurants it's simple: You will often see Jean George Vongerichten standing at the pass of this restaurant’s kitchen, inspecting each plate before it enters the dining room. Vongerichten's unique approach to French cooking revolves around a clever use of acids, combined with innovative spicing and flavor combinations, resulting in even simple preparations, like tuna ribbons with avocado and soy or a tartare of Japanese snapper with champagne grape gelée, that are "bursting with flavor." Lunch is a wonderful time to visit the restaurant as the large plates glass windows allow the light to stream into the room, while offering diners a view of Central Park.