After a number of illustrious attempts at creating an important restaurant based on the principles of molecular gastronomy, Paul Leibrandt decided that it was worth getting rid of his gas masks and blindfolds in order to go into business with Drew Nierporent. And with Liebrandt's new focus resulting in dishes like foie gras encased in a hibiscus-beet gelée with blood orange, hand-rolled, smoked pasta in a black truffle sauce; squab wrapped in pancetta, a dish that more than one reviewer described as "sublime"; and Maine Lobster Royale, with Parmesan crumble and lemon verbena, who can argue with his decision? Certainly not the people who said, "Liebrandt's thoughtful menu is without flaws" and "He understands how to make food flavorful while keeping it interesting."