Although Hugh Acheson was born and raised in Canada, the menu at his restaurant reads as if he's a Georgia native son. Doubters need only taste a few of Acheson's creations, like crisp veal sweetbreads with a custard of Red Mule grits and succotash or crispy catfish breaded in panko and served with a lemon emulsion, and they will be convinced faster than they can say Dixie. The vast preponderance of comments were favorable: "Chef Acheson makes imaginative use of local ingredients and puts together unexpected taste combinations," "a bit of culinary heaven stuck in the middle of a small town" and "worth the drive from Atlanta - and that says something."