It's an oft-used - and oft-misapplied - term, but Sam Hayward's restaurant really does seem to be "the Chez Panisse of New England." A vegetable crisper greets you in the entrance, and the aroma of meats that are grilling over wood or roasting in a wood-burning oven wafts through the dining room. The locally raised ingredients on Sam Hayward's menu, almost too voluminous to list, include chicken and beef, as well as seafood off of the dayboats in the country's number-one commercial fishing port. In summer you can enjoy seasonal fare like a signature goat cheese and heirloom tomato tart or anything made with Maine blueberries. But some prefer it in the dead of winter, when crowds are thinner, the waters colder and the local seafood absolutely perfect.