Given that sushi counters have long been the domain of male chefs, "it's a pleasure to see a woman" wielding the knives at this restaurant in the heart of downtown Rockland. Beyond broadening perceptions about who can properly remove the sinew from a piece of toro, Keiko Suzuki turns daily specials like tuna, shrimp, sea urchin, oysters and crab - all from nearby waters - into "refined plates" that manage to "uphold the Japanese tradition of culinary craftsmanship." Keiko's kitchen also turns out delicious cooked fare, like Maine crab cakes with bonito dashi silver sauce or homemade udon with Maine shrimp, shiitake mushrooms and wakame in a kelp dashi broth. The place is beloved by the locals, who say an establishment of this quality was "long needed in the Rockland area."