When Ben and Karen Barker opened this restaurant in 1986, they were at the forefront of the New Southern cuisine movement. Twenty-five years later, reviewers are still calling their place "the defining restaurant of its genre," citing dishes like the soufflé of twice-baked grits topped with a ragout of mushrooms and shaved foie gras confit, or a grilled Eden Farm Berkshire pork chop served with a Creole mustard jus and applesauce. A "fair corkage fee" is another plus, but early closing hours are a huge minus. Still, "when it's at its best it can rival some of the top dining experiences in the world."