Andy Ricker's cooking is so compelling that we are comfortable mentioning his name in the same breath as David Chang's. The well-deserved plaudit is a result of Ricker's obsession with Southeast Asian cuisine, manifested in a menu of "dishes you won't see elsewhere." Those looking for staples like pad Thai should try a different restaurant; but if catfish marinated in turmeric and sticky rice juice or fried chicken wings doused in caramelized Phu Quoc after being marinated in fish sauce and palm sugar is the type of thing that appeals to you, we suggest you immediately buy a plane ticket marked destination PDX. Even the décor - it's designed to look like a shack in Thailand - has an authentic feel to it.