No matter what their cuisine, Portland's best chefs manage to feature the wonderful local ingredients. Some do it by tweaking traditional recipes, while others add new presentations to a traditional menu. John Gorham takes the latter approach, and the result means that a Basque piperade peacefully co-exists with lamb bacon on grilled bread with apple butter. As Toro Bravo is extremely popular, a 45-minute wait isn't uncommon, but that means you can relax with a glass or two of sherry until your table is ready.