While Austria might be more than 5,000 miles for Portland, those who are homesick for some “sophisticated old world cooking” can head to Chris Israel’s restaurant. Israel takes the best of the Pacific Northwest Bounty which he turns into Mittel European classics like tarte flambée with sweet onions, smoky bacon, fromage blanc and chives, deep-fried Willapa Bay oysters with sauce rémoulade and mustard spätzle with guinea hen ragú, sauerkraut, bacon, hedgehog and black trumpet mushrooms. And at lunch Israel serves what he calls the Grü-ben — house-cured brisket, sauerkraut, Gruyere and Russian dressing on griddled rye served with Yukon Gold potato salad . The wine list is appropriately stocked with a bevy of Austrian wines.