Of all of Italy's regional cuisines, Piemontese might be the least familiar to American diners. But don't tell that to Jason Stratton, whose dedication to reproducing it as faithfully as possible results in a fully booked restaurant from the moment it opens until closing time. At the heart of Stratton's cooking are his homemade pastas, and if you sit at the chef's counter and order a tasting menu, it will likely include tortellini in broth, tagliatelle with pork shoulder that has been braised in milk and what one reviewer called "the best tajarin I've had outside of Italy," lightly tossed with butter and sage. A "small and decent list" of northern Italian wines and "friendly service" make a visit here one of the most delightful evenings in the city.