Mourad Lahlou is attempting to do for Moroccan food what David Chang did for Korean and Johnny Monis for Greek: create a contemporary version of an ethnic cuisine through the use of artisanal ingredients and modern cooking techniques. On first blush Lahlou's menu seems to have more in common with sophisticated places like COI than with an authentic ethnic restaurant, but starters like lima beans with ras-el-hanout or lamb sausage with harrisa-spiked goat yogurt and mains like beef with a carrot-tomato stew are firmly rooted in the Moroccan tradition. However, Melissa Chou's "interesting desserts" are purely modern creations that steer clear of Mideastern influences.