The cultural importance of Judy Rogers' restaurant merits its mention in the same breath as places like New York's Union Square Café and La Coupole in Paris. The food is nothing fancy, just a selection of oysters and starters like the house version of a Caesar salad, and mains like Petrale sole with sauerkraut in a Riesling butter sauce or what is easily the most famous roast chicken in the country, cooked in a brick oven and served with a warm bread salad, red mustard greens, scallions, currants and pine nuts. There's a short wine list, but also corkage; we suggest wine lovers bring their own.