Had this guide been published in the late '90s, Charles Phan's California-ized Vietnamese restaurant would have earned a much higher rating. Back then, it was the Momofuku of its day. But after it relocated to the Ferry Building in 2004, the food was "adapted to satisfy the tourist trade," most reviewers feel. Nevertheless, "one of the best lists of small-grower wines in the country" and "spectacular views of San Francisco Bay" make it a venue that is "still good enough to waste a meal on," especially at lunch on a sunny afternoon.