Despite the proximity to fertile farmland and fish fresh out of the Atlantic Ocean, you could starve looking for a good restaurant while driving the stretch between Philadelphia and Baltimore. That is, unless you time it so you can stop at this seafood specialist in the heart of downtown Wilmington, where Dan Butler sources fish and seafood "that are as good as what you will find at seafood restaurants in major U.S. cities." There's a terrific raw bar, and the New American seafood creations feature dishes like orange-scented steamed Atlantic cod as well as crab cakes with refried garbanzo beans and a spicy avocado sauce. Working against it is "a drab room" - "The décor isn't worthy of the tasty food," reviewers say - though "a lively bar scene" helps.