How can you go wrong with a restaurant where Nancy Silverton prepares your food behind something called a Mozzarella Bar? The concept is such a no-brainer that we're surprised no one thought of it before. Besides cheesy preparations that are one more delicious than the next, there are antipasti like grilled octopus with potato or crispy pig trotters with cicoria, pastas like a classic orecchiette with Swiss chard and sausage, and more ambitious presentations like calf's brain ravioli. Given that Mario Batali and Joe Bastianich are partners in the restaurant, it makes sense that "the mains bear a slight resemblance to the fare at Lupa in New York City" and that the wine list is "chock-full of the types of unusual bottles" Bastianich specializes in importing from Italy.