The simple neighborhood air of this restaurant notwithstanding, ask a dozen people who serves the best Cal-Ital cuisine in the city and one-third to one-half of them will say Delfina. Craig Stoll's obsession with the local terroir shows up in dishes like a house-made wild boar sausage with a lentil salad, paccheri pasta with blue-nosed sea bass or wild nettle pasta (when nettles are in season), and mains like sand dabs in acqua pazza with tomatoes and olives. It's extremely popular, and since it's on the smaller side, you will need to book well in advance of your visit.