Though the French farmhouse menu corroborates the restaurant's name, "a light hand" combined with the modern culinary technique that chef Galen Zamarra picked up in David Bouley's kitchen makes this the most delicate rustic cuisine you're likely to experience. Favorite dishes include the signature tuna flash-seared in a beurre noisette, Maine lobster gently poached in a carrot consommé and heartier fare like slowly braised short ribs with polenta or vegetarian-stuffed cabbage. It's one of the most user-friendly restaurants you will ever visit: Diners are encouraged to mix and match from the √† la carte and tasting menus. The staff is among the kindest in the city, and the farmhouse-chic décor is unique for an urban establishment.