With Le Bec-Fin in decline, Bibou - run by one of Le Bec-Fin's former executive chefs - has become the French restaurant in Philadelphia that many of our reviewers prefer. That could be because Pierre Calmels' postage-stamp-size dining room has more to do with a bistro than a grand dining experience, and fare like a ragout of snails and fava beans with chanterelles and tarragon or mains like a braised pig's foot stuffed with foie gras and French lentils fit the environment perfectly. Comments range from the glowing ("Food execution was superb") to the non-complaint complaint like "I wish they offered more than five entrées."