What is arguably the best brasserie food in the city can be found at this "very grown-up" restaurant on the Upper East Side. Whether it be cassoulet, choucroute or a simply roasted rack of lamb, Jean-Michel Bergougnoux's cooking comes as close to casual Parisian fare as you will find in the States. Problem is, the restaurant's clientele tends to be older, well-heeled and on the conservative side, resulting in an ambience that lacks the usual lively brasserie flair. A "lackluster wine list" and a no-BYOB policy mean that Franco-Oenophiles don't visit quite as often as they might like to.