You come away feeling as if you have visited a shrine when you've eaten at this, the more informal of Alice Waters' dining rooms, which is probably as close as you can get to casual European-style dining in the U.S. There's not much to the menu other than perfect ingredients prepared with love and care, like Cannard Farms rocket served with artichokes and hand-stretched mozzarella, Monterey Bay squid roasted in a wood-burning oven and served with aioli, and grilled leg of Magruder Ranch veal with fried spring onions, wild spinach and porcini mushrooms. There's the same quirky wine list as at the more formal downstairs restaurant - or corkage, if you prefer.