While other Cal-Ital offerings grab a lot of attention, Jon Smulewitz's restaurant seems to fly under the radar. But reviewers who know it well were quick to tell us it's the top restaurant of its type. In fact, one esteemed European chef told us his visit "was my favorite meal of my trip" - and that was after he spent two weeks eating at every top restaurant in the Bay Area. What he was raving about are "miraculous" homemade salumi, "crusty, crusty pizzas," agnolotti of lamb with mint and pecorino and a hen leg stewed with artichokes and Gaeta olives and topped with Parmesan. They don't take reservations, so "go early" if you don't want to wait on "lines that can be a pain."