It's easy to walk past this wine bar without realizing that its second-floor dining room is filled with diners who are enjoying a wine list "so good and so fairly priced" that "the food is almost an afterthought." Those who do manage to eat in-between sips of wine sup on starters like an English pea soup with peeky toe crab or a duo of foie gras with cherries and rhubarb agro dolce, along with entrées like slow-poached salmon with horseradish and Puy lentils or suckling pig with braised cabbage. The downstairs bar serves nearly 50 wines by the glass, each available in 2- or 4-oz. pours.