Fish that is flown in from Europe on a daily basis would seem to be a sufficient draw for a restaurant. But not for Michael White, who after learning how to cook at the beloved Romano in Viareggio, Italy, wanted to take the concept of an Italian seafood restaurant a step further. The typical meal begins with an assortment of fresh crudos, followed by “ethereal pastas” like angel hair with crab, sea urchin and chile peppers, and what numerous reviewers singled out as the best pasta in the U.S.: White's fusili with octopus, bone marrow and spicy tomato sauce. Only then do you get to enjoy those magnificent specimens of turbot and branzino which are so fresh that they seem like they were just pulled from a fishing trawler.