Though Italy is nearly 6,000 miles away, Holly Smith does such a good job of capturing the spirit of its cuisine that her restaurant might as well be located outside of Bologna. Smith utilizes the bounty of the Northwest in starters like Madhatcher squab breast with escarole, walnut oil and aged balsamico; maltagliati with Cattail Creek lamb sugo, minted green beans and honeyed ricotta; and rabbit braised in Arneis wine with a Ligurian chickpea crepe, pancetta and porcini. Beloved by a number of our reviewers, the place garnered comments like "super-high-quality ingredients and owners who really care" and "the best Italian restaurant in the Seattle area; nothing else comes close."