Acquerello isn't as widely known as other places in the Bay Area, but those familiar with it claim it serves the best straightforward Italian cuisine in San Francisco. Suzette Gresham-Tognetti's no-nonsense creations are on the richer side, like a Parmesan budino topped with a fresh arugula salad or risotto made with prawns, bay scallops, caviar and Prosecco or lightly smoked sturgeon served with shredded oxtail and a red wine drizzle. The place is a favorite with the local BYOB crowd, even though Giancarlo Paterlini (arguably the greatest host in town) supervises a primo wine list.