After wowing them night after night when he was in charge at Café Boulud, which he followed with a stint putting A Voce on the map, chef Andrew Carmellini is now packing them in at Robert DeNiro's Greenwich Hotel in TriBeCa. A master at giving rustic Italian fare a sophisticated spin, Carmellini features dishes like a light-as-air fritto misto of rock shrimp and Ipswich clams or a wood-fired pork chop topped with a light purée of peperoncini. The result is "a cuisine that is far more interesting than it would be in the hands of a less talented chef." And the desserts prepared by Karen DeMasco of Craft fame, like La Fantasia - chocolate and marsala gelatos, caramel tartufo and cacao croccante - are among the richest and most delicious in the city.