RESTAURANT REVIEW
Fresh from the accomplishment of helping Les Nomades land the top spot in a survey run by our competition, Chris Nugent and his wife opened this friendly BYOB in Chicago’s Lincoln Square neighborhood. Nugent has taken advantage of leaving the confines of a traditional French kitchen and has created what one reviewer called “serious, adult, carefully prepared, thoughtful Modernist cuisine.” Nugent is not afraid to incorporate techniques like gels, foams, powders and other indicia of modern cooking, but what makes his cuisine different is that “he uses those techniques in such a subtle and intricate way that you would hardly know they have been included on your plate.” One reviewer bemoaned “the lack of a wine selection,” a complaint obviously offered by someone who doesn’t have a stash of epic wines in his cellar, and can take advantage of the opportunity to drink them with this terrific food.