RESTAURANT REVIEW
The “soft-spoken, humble and gracious” Eiji Ichimura lords it over this sushi counter that is located in the same space as Brushstroke. A favorite of locals when he operated his own restaurant in Midtown, Ichimura returned to his native Japan for a spell before teaming up with David Bouley. There are only eight seats and only two seatings per evening. But ask anyone who has been lucky enough to snare a stool and they will tell you about “flights of fish arranged according to fat: . . . so you cycle through several fish tail portions and then fish loins and then several fish bellies . . . finishing with a bang of blue fin chutoro and otoro.” Eiji is also a proponent of aging his tuna, resulting in “cuts that could be a dead ringer for beef.”