RESTAURANT REVIEW
We dare anyone to name another chef who can cook fish like Alexandre Couillon. Scrambled eggs with sea urchin; monkfish paired with a magnificent spear of white asparagus and finished with a sauce of smoked eel and pear; local cod coated with a light sauce made with goat cheese and paired with zucchini and Charantes melon – these are just a few of the delicious dishes that emerge from Couillon’s kitchen. Céline Couillon runs the small dining room, and the terrific little list of local wines from the Vendée she has put together go perfectly with her husband’s cooking. The setting is idyllic: on the port in Noirmoutier-en-L’Ile, where, if you are lucky, you will get to watch local fishing boats arrive with something that might end up as your dinner.