RESTAURANT REVIEW
David Martin’s restaurant is an unlikely candidate for our Top 100 list. Just a simple brasserie in Brussels’ working-class neighborhood of Anderlecht, it is open for only six meals a week: lunch on weekdays and dinner on Friday night. Having learned his trade while working at restaurants like L’Arpège and Bruneau, Martin raises the brasserie experience to a new level by offering starters like a carpaccio of langoustines from Brittany served with lacquered bacon and laurel oil or a Basque-style pig’s foot served with a mille-feuille made from the pig’s ear and served with a ham mousse. But where Martin really shines is when he reaches into his meat locker, which is absolutely overflowing with beautifully marbled, dry-aged cuts of locally sourced Belgian beef, Simmental beef from Bavaria and the Gallician Rubia Gallega, a breed one rarely sees outside Spain.