RESTAURANT REVIEW
Nick Balla and Cortney Burns thought the time was right to expand the type of farm-to-table cuisine that Bay Area restaurants were known to serve. So they decided to expand their Cal-Ital franchise by turning to Balla's Hungarian background, and the result is dishes like stuffed mushrooms in sauerkraut broth and a modern-day version of goulash that includes a marrow bone. The expansion did not end there as the pair branched into Nordic cuisine with a trout roe smørrebrød, and into Japanese with dishes such as gai lan with dried beef and radish.