RESTAURANT REVIEW
Hugh Acheson is a son of Canada, yet the menu at his restaurant reads as if he's a Georgia native. Doubters need only taste creations like crisp veal sweetbreads with a Red Mule grits custard or crispy catfish served with a lemon emulsion, and they will be convinced faster than they can say "Dixie." Among the favorable comments: "Chef Acheson makes imaginative use of local ingredients and puts together unexpected taste combinations," "a bit of culinary heaven stuck in the middle of a small town" and "worth the hour drive from Atlanta - and that says something."