They have been stretching out bundles of dough into pies - locally referred to as "apizz" - at this location since 1925. But it wasn't until the 1970s, when Calvin Trillin waxed poetic about the white- clam pizza, that Frank Pepe's became a mandatory stop for foodies. The result: "a waiting time that can be horrendous." One reviewer told of driving there from New York City, only to find a two-hour wait; when he was finally seated, they had run out of fresh clams, so he was forced to change his topping to sausage.