Propelled onto the national dining scene when Calvin Trillin made the brash claim that it was "the best restaurant in the country," this restaurant lost its founder in 1982. The current owners who carry on his tradition do a good enough job to attract comments like "It's still the best barbecue I've tasted in the country." Brisket is the thing here, especially an order of burnt ends that are doused with the house's famous vinegar-based sauce.