One wonders how many of those doughnut-like beignets they have served at this French Market classic, "a tourist trap that you absolutely have to visit," since it opened in 1862. Or maybe someone has kept count of the number of cups of chicory-flavored coffee (the other best-seller on the small menu) they've sold. At any event, being open 24 hours means you'll never have to go without a beignet, and if you arrive at 3:00 a.m. you will be surprised at how many people are sitting around sipping coffee while getting confectioners' sugar all over their clothing.