Even though the namesake owner (immortalized in a New Yorker profile by Calvn Trillin) is in his 60s and the spring is gone from his step, the menu at Kenny Shopsin's Lower East Side lunch counter is still the same unusual mix of American luncheonette fare and regional dishes ranging from tacos to Thai curry. It's "an indescribable experience," and we're not sure how much longer Kenny will be able to keep at it, so we suggest you visit sooner than later.